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911 Engine Removal
Step 1 - Raise Car
Jack at appropriate jack points. Rubber pads at the corner works well.
Front Jack Point
Rear Jack Point
Step 2 - Disconnect Battery Ground Cable
Disconnect the ground side of the battery in front of the car.
Disconnect Negative
Protect Terminal
Step 3 - Disconnect A/C
Separate the A/C compressor from the console (bracket). With lines still connected, lay the compressor (with plenty of protection) on the fender.

We removed the A/C compressor in these pictures.
A/C Compressor
Compressor Removed
Step 4 - Remove Hot Air Ducts
Remove hot air ducts from Y pipe on hot air blower.
Step 5 - Remove Air Filter System
Remove air box cover and air filter.
Air Box Removed
Step 6 - Disconnect Electric Plugs
Remove relay plate cover and disconnect electric connections at:

Replay Plate

Adapter Plug

Relay Plate Socket

Ignition Control Unit
Electronic Connector
Ignition Control
Wide View
Step 7 - Disconnect Fuel Lines
Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel filter.

Disconnect the fuel return line from the fuel rail.
Fuel Filter
Disconnected Filter
Return Line
Pressure Damper ?
Removed Damper LIne
Step 8 - Disconnect Crankcase Vent Hose
Disconnect hoses connected to oil fill tube.

Don't forget hose from crankcase breather cap.
Oil Fill Tube
Step 9 - Disconnect Brake Booster Hose
Disconnect brake booster hoses and any other vacumn hoses on left side of engine compartment.
Brake Boost Hose
Hose Disconnected
Step 10 - Remove Tunnel Cover & Disconnect Speedometer
Pull off wire of electronic speedometer sensor in tunnel and remove rubber plug with wire plug.
Cover Location
Remove Cover
Speedometer Wires
Wires Removed (2)
Step 11 - Disconnect Shift Rod Coupler from Gearbox Shift Rod
Loosen socket head at screw on shift rod coupler. Pull coupler off transmission shift rod.
Socket Screw
Socket Screw Removed
Coupler Separated
Step 12 - Disconnect Ground Strap from Chassis
Disconnect ground strap (attached to transmission) from chassis (body).

The strap is located between the transmission cross member and cabin.
Ground Strap
Strap Removed
Step 13 - Separate Heater Hoses from Heat Exchanger
Separate the heater hose between the heat exchanger and heat control box.
Remove Hose
Step 14 - Remove Anti Roll Bar
Remove anti roll bar from chassis (bushing clamps) and from drop links.
Bushing Clamps
Step 15 - Disconnect Starter
Disconnect battery wire at starter.
Starter
Battery Wire
Disconnected Wire
Step 16 - Disconnect Accelerator Linkage
There may be a safety strap or wire on ball and socket.
Accelerator Linkage
Needle Nose Plier
Link Removed
Step 17 - Disconnect Clutch
Be careful of spring. Loosen pinch nuts and remove cable from hook.
Clutch Cable
Cable End
Cable Removed
Step 18 - Drain Oil
Drain Oil from crankcase and oil tank.
Crankcase Plug
Crankcase Drain
Oil Tank Plug
Oil Tank Drain
Step 19 - Disconnect Oil Lines
Disconnect oil lines from oil cooler and oil tank.
Oil Line Wrenches
Line Removed
Oil Cooler Line
Step 20 - Disconnect Drive Axles
Loosen drive axle flanges at transmission and wheel shaft. Socket (Allen) head bolts.
Drive Axle Bolts
Secure with Pry Bar
Step 21 - Secure Jack Under Engine
There are a number of different types of jacks that can be used here.

Tranny jack (Not Shown) with a special carrier. You can fabricate the carrier from plans in the factory shop manual or purchase one from a place like Pelican Parts.

Table & Tranny Jack. We used a jack up table (from Northern Tools) with a wooden jig and a tranny jack (also from Northern Tool).

Place the jack or table under the engine/transmission assembly and apply pressure.

You will need to lower the engine first to allow about a 15 degrees tilt with the transmission pointing up. This will allow you to remove the trasmission shift rod from the body tunnel.
Table & Tranny Jack
Table & Tranny Jack
Tranny Jack
Jack-Up Table
Step 22 - Remove Transmission Carrier Bolts.
Remove the 2 transmission carrier bolts.
Transmission Carrier
Bolt Close Up
Step 23 - Remove Engine Carrier Bolts
Remove the 2 engine carrier bolts.
Engine Carrier Bolts
Step 24 - Lower Engine or Raise Car
Slowly lower engine allowing the transmission end to tilt up to 15 degrees to allow shift rod to clear tunnel opening.

Watch for extra connection from modifications.
Table & Tranny Jack
Engine on Table/Jack
Step 25 - Remove Starter
Remove starter wires.

Remove starter.
Starter Removed
Step 26 - Remove Clutch Release Arm
Remove C-clip and remove clutch release arm.

If the arm will not move, remove tension off arm by backing off adjustment bolt.
Clutch Release Arm
Clutch Arm Removed
Step 27 - Separate Engine from Transmission
Remove the remaining 2 nuts and 1 bolt that secures transmission to engine.

Separate the transmission from engine. If necessary, use clutch release arm to help rotate clutch release fork inside bell housing.
Engine & Tranny
Step 28 - Remove Pressure Plate & Clutch
Remove the 9 socket (allen) head bolts evenly from pressure plate.

Remove pressure plate and clutch disk.
Pressure Plate
Step 29 - Mount Engine on Stand
Use a 911 specific engine mount. They can be ordered from specialty tool companies like Sir Tools or Baum Tools. You need the yoke and the clamp.

The yoke and clamp were attached to a modified 1250 lb engine stand (Northern Tool). The engine stand was used because it's wide legs allowed us to use the jack up table to slide the stand (with clamp) on to the engine (with mount).

Note the longer stud on top and shorter stud on bottom. You can purchase special "bolt shafts" that are the right length to secure the mount to the engine, but we just used really big nuts.

Be sure to secure yoke on oil cooler side of engine.
Yoke & Clamp
Upper Stud
Lower Stud
Wide Legs on Stand