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911 Engine Removal

Step 1 - Raise Car

Jack at appropriate jack points. Rubber pads at the corner works well.

Front Jack Point

Rear Jack Point

Step 2 - Disconnect Battery Ground Cable

Disconnect the ground side of the battery in front of the car.

Disconnect Negative

Protect Terminal

Step 3 - Disconnect A/C

Separate the A/C compressor from the console (bracket). With lines still connected, lay the compressor (with plenty of protection) on the fender.

We removed the A/C compressor in these pictures.

A/C Compressor

Compressor Removed

Step 4 - Remove Hot Air Ducts

Remove hot air ducts from Y pipe on hot air blower.

Step 5 - Remove Air Filter System

Remove air box cover and air filter.

Air Box Removed

Step 6 - Disconnect Electric Plugs

Remove relay plate cover and disconnect electric connections at:

Replay Plate

Adapter Plug

Relay Plate Socket

Ignition Control Unit

Electronic Connector

Ignition Control

Wide View

Step 7 - Disconnect Fuel Lines

Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel filter.

Disconnect the fuel return line from the fuel rail.

Fuel Filter

Disconnected Filter

Return Line

Pressure Damper ?

Removed Damper LIne

Step 8 - Disconnect Crankcase Vent Hose

Disconnect hoses connected to oil fill tube.

Don't forget hose from crankcase breather cap.

Oil Fill Tube

Step 9 - Disconnect Brake Booster Hose

Disconnect brake booster hoses and any other vacumn hoses on left side of engine compartment.

Brake Boost Hose

Hose Disconnected

Step 10 - Remove Tunnel Cover & Disconnect Speedometer

Pull off wire of electronic speedometer sensor in tunnel and remove rubber plug with wire plug.

Cover Location

Remove Cover

Speedometer Wires

Wires Removed (2)

Step 11 - Disconnect Shift Rod Coupler from Gearbox Shift Rod

Loosen socket head at screw on shift rod coupler. Pull coupler off transmission shift rod.

Socket Screw

Socket Screw Removed

Coupler Separated

Step 12 - Disconnect Ground Strap from Chassis

Disconnect ground strap (attached to transmission) from chassis (body).

The strap is located between the transmission cross member and cabin.

Ground Strap

Strap Removed

Step 13 - Separate Heater Hoses from Heat Exchanger

Separate the heater hose between the heat exchanger and heat control box.

Remove Hose

Step 14 - Remove Anti Roll Bar

Remove anti roll bar from chassis (bushing clamps) and from drop links.

Bushing Clamps

Step 15 - Disconnect Starter

Disconnect battery wire at starter.

Starter

Battery Wire

Disconnected Wire

Step 16 - Disconnect Accelerator Linkage

There may be a safety strap or wire on ball and socket.

Accelerator Linkage

Needle Nose Plier

Link Removed

Step 17 - Disconnect Clutch

Be careful of spring. Loosen pinch nuts and remove cable from hook.

Clutch Cable

Cable End

Cable Removed

Step 18 - Drain Oil

Drain Oil from crankcase and oil tank.

Crankcase Plug

Crankcase Drain

Oil Tank Plug

Oil Tank Drain

Step 19 - Disconnect Oil Lines

Disconnect oil lines from oil cooler and oil tank.

Oil Line Wrenches

Line Removed

Oil Cooler Line

Step 20 - Disconnect Drive Axles

Loosen drive axle flanges at transmission and wheel shaft. Socket (Allen) head bolts.

Drive Axle Bolts

Secure with Pry Bar

Step 21 - Secure Jack Under Engine

There are a number of different types of jacks that can be used here.

Tranny jack (Not Shown) with a special carrier. You can fabricate the carrier from plans in the factory shop manual or purchase one from a place like Pelican Parts.

Table & Tranny Jack. We used a jack up table (from Northern Tools) with a wooden jig and a tranny jack (also from Northern Tool).

Place the jack or table under the engine/transmission assembly and apply pressure.

You will need to lower the engine first to allow about a 15 degrees tilt with the transmission pointing up. This will allow you to remove the trasmission shift rod from the body tunnel.

Table & Tranny Jack

Tranny Jack

Jack-Up Table

Step 22 - Remove Transmission Carrier Bolts.

Remove the 2 transmission carrier bolts.

Transmission Carrier

Bolt Close Up

Step 23 - Remove Engine Carrier Bolts

Remove the 2 engine carrier bolts.

Engine Carrier Bolts

Step 24 - Lower Engine or Raise Car

Slowly lower engine allowing the transmission end to tilt up to 15 degrees to allow shift rod to clear tunnel opening.

Watch for extra connection from modifications.

Table & Tranny Jack

Engine on Table/Jack

Step 25 - Remove Starter

Remove starter wires.

Remove starter.

Starter Removed

Step 26 - Remove Clutch Release Arm

Remove C-clip and remove clutch release arm.

If the arm will not move, remove tension off arm by backing off adjustment bolt.

Clutch Release Arm

Clutch Arm Removed

Step 27 - Separate Engine from Transmission

Remove the remaining 2 nuts and 1 bolt that secures transmission to engine.

Separate the transmission from engine. If necessary, use clutch release arm to help rotate clutch release fork inside bell housing.

Engine & Tranny

Step 28 - Remove Pressure Plate & Clutch

Remove the 9 socket (allen) head bolts evenly from pressure plate.

Remove pressure plate and clutch disk.

Pressure Plate

Step 29 - Mount Engine on Stand

Use a 911 specific engine mount. They can be ordered from specialty tool companies like Sir Tools or Baum Tools. You need the yoke and the clamp.

The yoke and clamp were attached to a modified 1250 lb engine stand (Northern Tool). The engine stand was used because it's wide legs allowed us to use the jack up table to slide the stand (with clamp) on to the engine (with mount).

Note the longer stud on top and shorter stud on bottom. You can purchase special "bolt shafts" that are the right length to secure the mount to the engine, but we just used really big nuts.

Be sure to secure yoke on oil cooler side of engine.

Yoke & Clamp

Upper Stud

Lower Stud

Wide Legs on Stand